Disseminating the appeal of Japanese sake.

Lush mountains and clean ocean: Sake representing Etsu-zan Jaku-sui

In 2020, Tokoyama was rethinking of what the brewery stood for in the decline of the industry: “What is the significance of the brewery being here?” “Why are we brewing?” Eventually he defined “brewing harmony” as the raison-d’etre of the brewery to transmit history to the next generation, and “to brew sake that expresses Etsu-zan Jaku-sui” as their purpose.

Etsu-zan Jaku-sui is a term that encompasses culture and nature of Fukui, comprised of Echizen (former name of northern Fukui, from which “Etsu” derives) lush mountains and Wakasa (former name of southern Fukui, from which “Jaku (another pronunciation of the same kanji)” derives) clean water. Based on the brewery’s unique crisp dry flavor that treasures “marriage” with food, their aim is to brew sake in the images of flexible, malleable sea, and of rich, all-embracing mountains. Sake inspired by ocean is a sake developed based on Jozan’s standard, dryness using isoamyl acetate-forward FK5 yeast and developed into a flavor with more clarity. This profile makes up 70% of entire products. On the other hand, sake with the image of the mountains uses the brewery’s own J9 yeast that produces apple-like fresh aroma and relatively rich and deep flavors. Tokoyama believes J9 is best suited to his style of brewing, among the yeast varieties that his late father left behind, and he blends it with FK5, Fukui’s original yeast.

“Brewing harmony” does not only refer to the popular saying “Harmony brews good sake” but also to harmony between the brewery and Fukui’s nature and tradition, as well as union between the brewery and retailers/restaurants. When Tokoyama joined the brewery, he first took on examining its retail network. His mother was a non-business person and the brewery’s relationship with retailers had become rather disorganized, and Tokoyama decided to choose only those who share the passion for sake and with whom he can build a long-term relationship. Tokoyama confessed “I’m not the most efficient worker, so I needed to curve production to focus and think about our retail relations. But because of that, we now have very stable sales channels.” His enthusiasm for his retailers is strong, as he holds an event to present local retailers and restaurants his new brew every year. By sharing his philosophy and thoughts with them, he hopes that these retailers and restauranteurs would communicate the brewer’s passion to consumers. “Unless local people love the sake, it’s not local sake. I want to make sake that cares for Fukui’s natural environment, and makes people in the industry and consumers happy,” Tokoyama told us with resolve.

Handing over to 9th generation, Tokoyama turns from self-preservation to positive reinvention

Tokoyama’s father was a passionate sake business owner who led Fukui Prefecture’s young brewers’ association in his drive to advance the industry as a whole in Fukui. It was him who persuaded a farmer in the Miyama district, about 30 minutes’ drive from the brewery in rich nature, to start experimental rice farming of Miyamanishiki. In 2002, he and several farmers established together “Echizen Miyama Local Sake Association”: A participatory and circular program whereby sake is brewed using only locally grown rice from Miyama to promote the area, then is presented to Association’s members who are invited to the brewery to celebrate the product together. The Association has been active for 20 years since. In recent years, upon Tokoyama’s request, farmers grow 3 varieties: Gohyakumangoku and Yamadanishiki, besides Miyamanishiki. “It is due to years of trust-based relationship established in my father’s generation that farmers cooperate with us, taking risks. I am so lucky that these people provide support,” says Tokoyama, who has been awarded the Platinum Prize in 2017 Kura Master in Junmai Daiginjo section, as well as another Platinum in Miyamanishiki section in 2022, as if they were a way of repaying these farmers’ effort and expectations.

In 2022, to further their attempt, they began incorporating organic fertilizers such as poultry manure and fallen leaves. They use droppings of chickens that feed on rice grown by local farmers, eliminating excessive use of artificial fertilizers as well as transportation of such. This has made possible an environmentally friendly and locally circular method of sake rice farming. Tokoyama was delighted: “Taking advantage of the nature’s cycle, our sake can represent Fukui’s local natural flavors.”

On October 1, 2022, World Sake Day as well as Tokoyama’s predecessor and mother’s birthday, Tokoyama became president. He was in the process of renewing their sake label on the occasion that their sake flavor profile was redefined, and various designs were being considered. However, “This calligraphy seemed most fitting, in a renewed manner,” and Tokoyama made a return to the origin and inherited the art by Fukui’s own calligrapher Juichi Yoshikawa, which his father had adopted. Inadvertently, it was the 25th year since Tokoyama’s father gave birth to the Jozan brand. “I had never discussed work with my father.” Yet, in his own journey to pursue his way in the sake world, his father’s shadow appears. In 2024, the brewery will celebrate its 220th year. Hokuriku Shinkansen’s new Fukui Station will launch in the same year. From ancestors to father, the baton that mother then protected has come firmly into the hands of Tokoyama, 9th generation. “From now on, we are (not passively persevering, but) positively reinventing ourselves,” Tokoyama repeated these words that impressed on our mind.

Pubulish at : 2023.10.20

Book : 第37号　揺るがぬ覚悟