Creating “One-of-a-Kind” Products with Gratitude to the Local Community
▲Executive Officer, Manufacturing Department Head, and brewmaster Yoshihisa Morimoto joined the company in 2008 after working at Nippon Seishu (Sapporo, Hokkaido). Now in his 16th brewing season as brewmaster, he continues to strive for quality improvement in sake production.
Brewing “Kokushi Muso” to Carry on the Legacy of Dry Sake
For many sake enthusiasts, when thinking of Hokkaido’s quintessential dry sake, Kokushi Muso undoubtedly comes to mind. It is dry and crisp, yet soft on the palate, with umami that deepens the more you savor it. When warmed, it gains a firmer body and a clean finish that encourages the next sip.
In addition to its mainstay, Takasago Shuzo also offers a range of sake, such as full-bodied junmai and junmai ginjo with citrus-like aromas and bright acidity. Yet, all these varieties share the defining crispness that characterizes the Kokushi Muso brand. Yoshihisa Morimoto, who has served as the brewery’s brewmaster since 2008, respects the original flavor built over generations, while actively adapting to the changing times. “What’s been built by the previous generations isn’t something I can change easily,” Morimoto says, reflecting his commitment to preserving tradition.
Kokushi Muso was first introduced in 1975, during a shift in consumer preferences from sweet to dry sake. The brewery was quick to respond, releasing a refreshing dry sake that soon expanded its distribution beyond Asahikawa and throughout Hokkaido, eventually gaining recognition both domestically and internationally. The brand swiftly became the flagship product of Takasago Shuzo.
However, the journey wasn’t without challenges. In 2004, the collapse of a golf course owned by the brewery’s group, a casualty of the burst economic bubble, led to financial instability. Despite its solid reputation for quality brewing, the brewery was impacted and sought support from Nippon Seishu, a sake company based in Sapporo, in 2005. It was during this period of transition that Morimoto, then a brewer at Nippon Seishu, was appointed as the new brewmaster.
The transition wasn’t without pressure. Brewing environments, climate, and brewery size differed significantly between Sapporo and Asahikawa. Still, Takasago Shuzo decided to continue the Kokushi Muso brand, and Morimoto, determined to honor the loyal customers, resolved not to change what should remain unchanged. At the same time, he recognized the need to set a new direction as the brewery’s brewmaster and began working on improvements in brewing methods. He experimented with new yeast strains and refined processes at every stage, gradually evolving the “classic taste” while staying true to its roots.
Now, nearly 20 years later, Takasago Shuzo focuses on maximizing the potential of each rice variety, polishing ratio, and harvest condition—particularly with Hokkaido-grown rice. For example, with Ginpu, known for its large shinpaku (starch core), the team is careful not to over-dissolve it during processing. With varieties like Suisei and Kitashizuku, which tend to produce light, clean flavors with minimal off-notes, the rice needs deliberate handling to dissolve properly. “If the harvest is good, we make sure to dissolve it thoroughly,” Morimoto explains.
Among these, the junmai ginjo made with Kitashizuku polished to 55% has become a key product for the brewery. As one of the most frequently brewed sake in the Kokushi Muso lineup, it serves as a benchmark for evaluating the quality of that year’s rice. Morimoto admits that this is the product where he feels he can fully demonstrate his brewing skills. This sake has not only gained popularity alongside their traditional junmai and regular sake varieties but has also elevated the entire Kokushi Muso brand, helping to attract a new generation of fans.
▲︎The raw rice, washed and soaked the previous day according to its intended use, is steamed using a continuous rice-steaming machine. The koji rice, except for a portion reserved for daiginjo sake and other varieties, is inoculated on top of the cooling machine and then transported to the adjacent koji room using an air shooter.
▲The koji production process is meticulously tailored to consider the characteristics of the rice variety, polishing ratio, and the quality of the harvest year. The photo shows “Ginpu” with a polishing ratio of 60%, and the overall impression is that of a well-defined haze (Koji-mold growth).
Contributing to Regional Revitalization Through Various Projects
Alongside preserving the concept of Kokushi Muso in their sake brewing, Takasago Shuzo actively engages in projects that foster collaboration with the local community and leverage the unique characteristics of the region. Toru Hirono, Director and Head of the Planning Department, reflects that these initiatives were partly motivated by the brewery’s experience with the civil rehabilitation process. “Given the trouble we caused the community, we are driven by the desire to give back in any way we can,” he explains.
Two collaborative projects with Asahikawa Agricultural High School embody the brewery’s deep connection to the community. “Asahi-No-Koh Sake Project”The second is the “Asahi Takasago Beef Project,” where the meat processing team from the Food Science Department collaborates with producers of the branded beef, Asahi Takasago Beef, which is raised on feed enriched with sake lees from Takasago Shuzo. This project also involves product development and food education events in collaboration with local producers. Both initiatives offer a comprehensive learning experience, with support from industry experts and related institutions.
These projects integrate sustainable production practices and provide participants with hands-on experience, from product planning to conveying their stories to consumers. Takasago Shuzo also takes an active role in educating the public about sake brewing, the history of Japanese sake, and the risks of underage drinking, positioning itself almost like a regional trading company.
While large-scale projects like these often place a significant burden on breweries, Hirono and Hitomi Nakayama, both members of the planning department, provide full support from start to finish. Thanks to their efforts, the projects have grown into sustainable, long-term initiatives.
“Takasago Shuzo, founded in 1899, is like a landmark for the region,” says Hirono. “We want to harness that reputation to plan various projects that boost the local community in collaboration with residents.” Nakayama adds, “Beyond brewing, we aim to create activities that contribute to revitalizing Asahikawa, Hokkaido, and the sake industry as a whole,” expressing her commitment to further growth and development.
▲In the koji room, nearly all processes leading up to the completion of koji production are carried out by hand. For the koji-making process, box koji with a volume ranging from 10 kg to a maximum of 18 kg is employed.
▲The de-koji room was established 6 to 7 years ago for the process of transferring the koji. The shelves, handmade by the brewery staff, are designed to be stackable on wheeled carts, allowing for the necessary number of layers to be stacked easily.
Serious Efforts Have Brought Various Ripple Effects to the Market/strong>
Takasago Shuzo runs several other projects in collaboration with the community. One such initiative is the Farmers’ Sake Project, launched in 2012 with the slogan, “Let’s make the best sake in Japan using all-Asahikawa ingredients.” This citizen-participation project aims to deepen public interest in sake through activities such as hands-on experience in planting and harvesting the Suisei sake rice, brewery tours, and label-pasting workshops with new designs every year.
Another ongoing project, the Ryunoizumi Project, began in 2015 in partnership with the town of Toma in Kamikawa Gun. In this project, new sake brewed with locally grown rice is aged for about two months inside the Toma Limestone Cave, a Hokkaido-designated natural monument. The finished sake is sold locally and used as a gift for hometown tax donations, promoting the town’s appeal.
These diverse projects have also brought unexpected benefits to the brewery. For instance, the 50 tons of sake lees produced annually during brewing are used as feed for Asahi Takasago Beef. In collaboration with local companies, the brewery has also developed various food products using sake lees, achieving zero waste and contributing to sustainability.
The impact of these projects extends beyond the brewery. In one example, a student who participated in the Asahi-No-Koh Sake Project —involved in every step from rice cultivation to sake brewing—developed a strong passion for agriculture and chose to pursue a career in farming. Another participant, eager to continue brewing, reached out directly to Takasago Shuzo and joined the brewery staff as a brewer last year.
While projects like these offer PR opportunities and raise awareness, they do not always translate directly into increased sake consumption. In many cases, repeated initiatives can lose momentum over time. However, Takasago Shuzo’s efforts have not only revitalized local industries and the economy but also generated considerable interest in their brewing activities. What began as a way to “give back to the community” has evolved beyond its original purpose, leaving room for further growth and development.
▲︎The bottling line accommodates a variety of bottling formats, ranging from 1.8L bottle to cup sake. It began operations in 2008 when Mr. Morimoto became the toji (master brewer) at Takasago Shuzo, and it continues to operate to this day.
▲The maximum brewing unit is a total of 2,400 kg of rice. In recent years, due to the increasing ratio of designated sake names and the rising demand for premium sake, smaller batches have become more common, presenting challenges in tank management and scheduling adjustments.
Expressing Gratitude in Action as a Sake Brewery from Asahikawa
The city of Asahikawa, home to Takasago Shuzo, enjoys a natural environment perfectly suited for sake brewing: a harsh, snowy climate, abundant and pristine water from the Daisetsu Mountain Range, and one of Japan’s premier rice-producing regions.
Surrounded by these favorable conditions, the brewery has long prioritized connections with local industries, schools, and people, focusing on creating things unique to this place—things that can only be achieved here. One example is their snow-aged sake, where freshly brewed sake is placed in tanks and buried in snow in Biei, about 20 kilometers south of Asahikawa, to mature until spring. This method captures the essence of Hokkaido’s climate and natural dynamism, perfectly embodying the brewery’s mission of doing what can only be done here.
Asahikawa is also a region with deep connections to the Ainu people, an indigenous group who have lived in harmony with nature and their deities, or Kamuy. As a brewery rooted in this area, Takasago Shuzo aims to honor and share Ainu culture through unique products that reflect these traditions. One such example is the junmai sake Moshiri, which features Ainu patterns inspired by Ikuko Okada, a prominent figure in Ainu traditions. Another is the junmai daiginjo sake Asahi Kamui, created in collaboration with Hisae Kawamura, Vice Director of the Kawamura Kaneto Ainu Memorial Museum, and decorated with traditional Ainu motifs.
In April of this year, Asahi Kamui received a redesigned package incorporating Ainu patterns passed down through the Kawamura family, thanks to their generosity. This new design reflects the brewery’s renewed commitment to sharing the Ainu legacy through their products.
“It’s one of the roles of a brewery that has been making sake in this place for over a century,” says Hirono. True to this philosophy, the brewery remains dedicated to creating things unique to Asahikawa, continuing to brighten the region through the art of sake brewing.
▲The charming presence of the Meiji-era sake brewery stands out. Across from it is a manufacturing facility built in 1929, which is still in active operation today.
▲Since its construction in 1909, the Meiji brewery has been responsible for both production and sales. It was renovated into a direct sales store in 2000. A museum showcasing numerous historical materials related to Takasago Shuzo is also housed on the premises.
Pubulish at : 2025.01.10
Book : 第41号 轍を描く
-
-
Takasago Shuzo Co., Ltd.
Managing Director
Toru Miyazaki
- Right 1, 17-chome, Miyashitadori, Asahikawa City, Hokkaido
- 0166-23-2251
- Founded in 1899
- https://www.takasagoshuzo.com
Born in 1961, he joined Nippon Seishu in 1980. After serving as an executive officer (appointed in 2013) and then as a director (appointed in 2016), he was seconded to Takasago Shuzo in 2020. In November of the same year, he was appointed director, and by December, he officially transferred to Takasago Shuzo. He was subsequently promoted to managing director, a position he continues to hold today.
Interviewer・Writer Maki Ichida
A writer born in Hiroshima City and living in Okayama City. Reporting in the field in summer and at a brewery in winter. Through lectures and teaching activities, she also foucus on publicizing rice produced in Okayama, such as Omachi. Her goal is to spread widely the appeal of local sake brewed in the region. She is an SSI-certified sake sommelier, a lecturer in sake studies at SSI, and a certified J.S.A. Sake Diploma. She is also a public relations advisor for the Okayama Prefecture Sake Brewers Association.
Photographer tomokazu izumi
